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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.