Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
